Running atom is a good desktop alternative. I’ve created a few plugins to help you get a more PDE like experience with atom
first is the toolbar which boots up a webserver to run your sketches with a play button like the PDE: https://atom.io/packages/p5js-toolbar
Second is a syntax helper / snippets: https://atom.io/packages/p5js-snippets
Atom uses themes for it’s syntax highlighting, so it’s likely you can find a theme to suit your needs. You can also easily make themes using CSS if you happen to know a bit of that!
search for them here: https://atom.io/themes
Here’s one I made a while back based on p5’s color scheme: https://atom.io/themes/p5js-syntax
How to install packages:
https://flight-manual.atom.io/using-atom/sections/atom-packages/